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The Bolshoi Theater
Moscow, Russia
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One of the world’s most magnificent performance halls, the Bolshoi (“Grand”) Theater is looking more dazzling than ever following its top-to-toe 6-year renovation completed in 2011, at the cost of $688 million (some say closer to $1 billion). Located near the heart of Moscow, a short stroll from Red Square , this is one of Europe’s largest venues—seating over 2,000 spectators—and the place where some of the greatest musical works ever to emerge from Russia premiered. The historic pink-and-white theater was founded in 1824 and debuted Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake in 1877 (it was not well-received, being considered too complex, but remains a popular standard on the program today, as is The Nutcracker at Christmastime).
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For much of the 20th century, it continued to serve as a launch pad for some of Russia’s best-known operas and ballets, including works by Prokofiev and Shostakovich, among many others, while star dancers like Galina Ulanova, Rudolf Nureyev, and Nadezhda Pavlova helped bring world renown to the Bolshoi Ballet.
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For decades, the Bolshoi was a sacred artistic institution, flourishing under czars and, later, free from the oppression of the Soviets. 
After the fall of Communism, Russia’s perilous economy gave rise to the rumor that the Bolshoi had exhausted itself and was now simply resting on its laurels. But the excitement is back, and the opera and ballet companies are once again deserving of their majestic, gilded theater. Although tradition remains sacrosanct—the repertoire still consists primarily of the Russian classics—innovation, reform, and new blood have brought the Bolshoi into the 21st century.
Be sure to visit the venerable landmark across the street, the grand Hotel Metropol, an enclave of early-20th-century Russian opulence. Stop by for tea, a preballet drink, or an extravagant dinner in the cavernous, glass-domed Art Nouveau restaurant, where scenes in Doctor Zhivago were filmed and where Lenin once delivered impassioned speeches.
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The century-old Hotel Savoy, a short stroll from the Bolshoi, offers pre-Revolutionary Russian romance; its 67 classic-style rooms are outfitted with Italian furniture and marble-filled bathrooms. For those who think bigger is better, the nearby Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel, on central Petrovka Street, is an elegant historical building with a more contemporary interior, and 230 handsomely appointed rooms and a towering, sunlit atrium.
Info: Tel 7/495-455-5555; http://www.bolshoi.ru. When: closed mid-Jul–Aug. Hotel Metropol: Tel 7/499-270-1062; http://www.metropol-moscow.ru. Cost: dinner $150. Hotel Savoy: Tel 7/495-620-8555; eng.savoy.ru. Cost: from $155 (off-peak), from $490 (peak). Moscow Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel: Tel 7/495-937-1000; in the U.S., 888-236-2427; http://www.marriott.com. Cost: from $220 (off-peak), from $250 (peak). Best time: May–Oct for nicest weather.
Inside—and Outside—the Fortress Walls
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The Kremlin and Red Square
Moscow, Russia
A prominent feature of Red Square, St. Basil’s Cathedral commemorates Ivan the Terrible’s conquest of the city of Kazan.
The historic seat of power for fabulously wealthy czars and despots, and a prized conquest for the odd foreign invader (Napoleon holed up here in 1812), the Kremlin, meaning “citadel” or “fortress,” has seen dramatic upheaval since it was a mere wooden stronghold that arose beside the Moscow River in the 12th century. Today, its role is to serve as the official residence of the president of Russia, though it is perhaps better known for its magnificent architecture and for the dazzling treasures it houses.
Enclosed by high, 15th-century brick walls that run for more than a mile with 19 watchtowers, the sprawling 68-acre complex served for decades as the epicenter of the Soviet Union, beginning when power was transferred here from St. Petersburg in 1918, and it still exudes an air of mystery. The Armory Museum, its most visited site, offers a dizzying crash course on the lifestyles of the rich and famous czars: Its 4,000 objects, dating back to the 12th century, include exquisite Fabergé eggs, the jewel-studded helmet of the first czar, Mikhail Fyodorovich Romanov, and the ivory throne of Ivan the Terrible. View the baubles and regalia of the Romanovs in the Almazny Fond (Diamond Fund), where you’ll find the scepter of Catherine the Great—topped by the 190-carat Orlov Diamond, a gift from her lover Count Orlov—and her diamond-encrusted coronation crown.
Three cathedrals are among the Kremlin’s star attractions. The 15th-century Assumption Cathedral (aka Cathedral of the Dormition), with five glittering gold domes and a marvelous collection of icons, is where reigning princes swore fealty and czars were crowned. The majestic Archangel Cathedral was a burial site for princes and czars. Lording over them, the Cathedral of the Annunciation claims the tallest structure in the Kremlin—the octagonal, 266-foot-high Ivan the Great Bell Tower.
The vast, magnificent Red Square, the Krasnaya Ploshchad, stands just outside the Kremlin’s east wall. In old Russian, krasnaya (red) also meant “beautiful,” but for years to come, Red Square will be associated with Communism and the choreographed military parades that regularly took place here. Also in the shadow of the Kremlin is the Lenin Mausoleum, where the first Soviet leader’s embalmed body has been eerily lying in state since his death in 1924. At the far end of the cobblestoned square stand the exuberant, candy-colored pinnacles and onion domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral, a city icon commissioned by Ivan the Terrible in the mid-1500s.
Overlooking it all is the Hotel National in its original Art Nouveau splendor. Spacious rooms are decorated with Italian furnishings, and most suites afford enviable Kremlin and Red Square views. Ask for Suite 107, where Lenin lived for a time in 1917. In the capital, things are done on a grand scale, including the Ritz-Carlton Moscow. It enjoys an imperial vantage point from its location on Tverskaya Boulevard, known for its upscale shopping. The best place to drink in the views is from the sleek, penthouse O2 Lounge, especially when the square is illuminated at night. A surprisingly inexpensive alternative (this, after all, is one of the priciest areas in Moscow) is the Arbat House Hotel, a basic and well-located option a 15-minute walk away.
The Kremlin: http://www.kreml.ru. Hotel National: Tel 7/495-258-7000; in the U.S., 800-325-3589; http://www.national.ru. Cost: from $275. Ritz-Carlton Moscow: Tel 7/495-225-8888; in the U.S., 800-542-8680; http://www.ritzcarlton.com. Cost: from $300. Arbat House Hotel: Tel 7/495-643-1910; http://www.arbat-house.com. Cost: from $110. Best times: May–Sep for nice weather; early Sep for Den Goroda (City Day), which features a parade, live music, and fireworks.
A World of Art Above and Below Ground
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The Tretyakov and the Moscow Metro
Moscow, Russia
Among the many museums and architectural splendors of Moscow is the Tretyakov Gallery, which houses one of the country’s finest collections of Russian art—over 150,000 works from the 11th to the 20th centuries. Wander through Russia’s first public museum, started in 1856 by the wealthy banker Pavel Tretyakov, and come face-to-face with some of the world’s great masterpieces, both well known and obscure. You’ll find evocative works by medieval icon painter Andrey Rublev (including his celebrated Holy Trinity), and brilliant portraits by 19th-century master Ilya Repin (such as his disturbing portrait Ivan the Terrible and His Son Ivan and a gentler one of the celebrated composer M. P. Mussorgsky). The museum complex also contains the adjacent 17th-century Church of St. Nicholas in Tolmachi, whose exquisite, five-tiered iconostasis dates back to the same period. Nearby, a new branch of the Tretyakov showcases Russian avant-garde artists of the 20th and 21st centuries—including Kandinsky, Chagall, and Malevich—and also displays more curious works of Socialist Realism created in the 1930s, when idealized portraits of peasants and factory workers were all the rage.
For more art from the Soviet period, head underground, to the Moscow metro, where you’ll marvel at the repository of elegant marbles, bas-reliefs, and mosaics—sometimes illuminated by glittering chandeliers. The first stage of the 180-plus stations was completed in 1935 and was quickly hailed as one of Stalin’s shining triumphs. Much of the artwork found in the stations pays tribute to historical events—portrayed through a pro-Soviet lens. The palatial Komsomolskaya station features an enormous hall with Baroque details and ceiling mosaics depicting Russian military triumphs. The Mayakovskaya station may be the metro’s crown jewel, with its stainless-steel columns and white-and-pink marble floors. The ceiling mosaics depict scenes from “24 Hours in the Land of the Soviets,” a poem by Soviet playwright Vladimir Mayakovsky. Novosloboskaya station boasts 32 backlit stained-glass panels portraying joyful farmers and workers in the Socialist Realist style. Brass borders frame each panel, with pink Ural marble and conical chandeliers adding to the grandeur.
State Tretyakov Gallery: Tel 7/495-953-1051; http://www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Where to stay: The famously quirky but well-located Golden Apple is one of the city’s better boutique choices for those on a budget. Tel 7/495-980-7000; http://www.goldenapple.ru. Cost: from $100 (off-peak), from $270 (peak). Best time: Jun–Aug for nicest weather.
Cruising the Volga and Beyond
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Waterways of the Czars
Moscow, Russia
Although Moscow and St. Petersburg are featured on many sailing itineraries, neither is actually on the Volga. The river is, however, part of a network of interconnected canals, locks, and lakes that makes a journey by boat possible from either city. On your way, you’ll pass medieval towns with Orthodox monasteries and cathedrals standing silently on the banks, towns that make up what’s known as Moscow’s “Golden Ring” for their wealth of artistic and architectural treasures. The charming city of Uglich, dating back to 937, is known for striking examples of Russian architecture built over the centuries, including the famed 17th-century Church of St. Dmitry on the Blood, erected in memory of Ivan the Terrible’s son, who died on this spot in 1591.
In Lake Onega, the second largest lake in Europe, you’ll find the island of Kizhi, covered with an extraordinary array of centuries-old wooden buildings that were transported here from various parts of the region, creating an open-air museum of more than 80 structures. The 17th-century St. Lazarus church is one of the country’s oldest wooden chapels, while the 22-domed Church of the Transfiguration was built in 1714 without a single nail.
From Moscow, river journeys also head south along the largely unexplored Lower Volga, with a stop at Kazan. The proud center of Tatar culture, it is home to an ancient kremlin (fortress) that dates back to 1005 and holds an impressive array of historic treasures. The spires of mosques and the onion-shaped domes of cathedrals rise around the town, which also has a sprawling market that’s ripe for exploring. Farther along is Volgograd, formerly Stalingrad, the site of World War II’s bloodiest battle (over a million Soviet and Nazi soldiers died over 200 days). The event is memorialized today by the 280-foot-high statue Motherland Calls. The final stop on a Lower Volga cruise is Astrakhan, the world capital of caviar, where the river—Europe’s longest—meets the Caspian Sea. Set amid the wetlands of the Volga Delta, Europe’s largest estuary, this pretty town and its environs are a wondrous habitat for flamingos and pelicans, as well as for the beluga sturgeon that have made it famous.
The newly refurbished Volga Dream, a 314-foot luxury liner, is the river’s best option, more akin to a private yacht than to a cruise ship. It has just 56 cabins—all with river views—and 60 crew members. Guests can enjoy private recitals of Rachmaninoff and Chopin in the Neva lounge, rejuvenate in the sauna after history-filled days on shore, or sample the vodka collection in the handsome Ladoga Bar while a first-rate kitchen prepares dinners of local cuisine interpreted with a European flourish.
Where: departures from Moscow and St. Petersburg. How: U.S.-based Exeter International offers Volga Dream cruises between Moscow and St. Petersburg and between Moscow and Astrakhan. Tel 800-633-1008 or 813-251-5355. Cost: 12-day tours (with 6-night cruise) from Moscow to St. Petersburg, from $8,300, all-inclusive. When: Jun–Oct. Best time: May–Oct for nicest weather.
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